tiistai 21. tammikuuta 2020

Huomiot Torniossa 1830-luvun alussa

Parikymppinen aatelismies Arthur Dillon teki 1830-luvun alussa Islantiin ja Lappiin matkat, joista kirjoittamansa kaksiosainen kirja A winter in Iceland and Lapland julkaistiin vuonna 1840. Jälkimmäisen osan koristuksena oli oheinen kuva saamelaisesta Kautokeinossa.

Pohjoista Dillon lähestyi Tukholmasta rekikyydillä Länsipohjan rannikkoa seuraten. Haaparannassa ei ollut paljon nähtävää, joten hän lähti katsomaan kasakoita Tornioon.
 I had heard that Tornea was in a better state of defence ; that it was garrisoned with Cossacks. I was further told of the numberless crosses that covered the commanding officer of this important position. Eager to see again the long beards of these half-wild troops, of which I had a very indistinct recollection, I asked the way to Tornea, and was pointed out an avenue of young fir-trees planted in the ice, and forming a good track over the river. It is scarcely half a mile wide in this part, and, after making some leeway in my progress, for the wind was very high, I came to the opposite bank. I expected here to be subjected to the examination which takes place on every other part of the Russian fron tier, but nothing in the shape of soldier or custom-house officer, or, indeed, living being, presented itself. A sentry box, I was going to say empty, but there I would be incorrect, for it was choked up with snow, was the only thing on duty here, and a high barrier of drift was the only bar to my entrance.
Kaupungissa venäläisten vallasta kertoi vahtikoppien ohella ortodoksinen kirkko "a gay-looking building, painted green and white, [...] Four or five bells were hung in a row, not on the summit but on one side of it." ja tienviitta, joka kertoi etäisyyden Pietariin "On one side of the gateway I observed a post, on which was painted in large letters, "To St. Petersburg, 1735 wersts."".

Dillon palasi Tornioon seuraavanakin päivänä, mutta paikallisen oppaan kera
The peasant that went with us was a Finlander, and wore the handsome cap peculiar to that nation. It is a cloth or velvet skull-cap surrounded by fur, much after the manner of the tiara of the Russian women. They also wear a particular kind of boots, called komager, the feet of which are made of one entire piece, and the leg that reaches up to the knee of another. As the soles are not harder than what would be the upper leather with us, they are much better suited for walking on the snow and keeping the feet warm than the common sort of boots ; the same kind are worn by the Habitants of Lower Canada.
Tutustuttuaan vihdoin kasakoihinkin Dillon jatkoi Köngäksen ruukin johtajan seurassa matkaa pohjoiseen, jossa ruotsin kielellä ei pärjäisi (!) .

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